Eoryongdo : The Island Almost No Foreigner Has Walked
Is Eoryongdo the most overlooked island hike in all of Wando County? I think it might be. Wando County gets occasional attention for its purple-themed Banwol-Bidan islands or the salt flats of Jeungdo, but Eoryongdo sits further out in the archipelago, past the point where most travellers — Korean or foreign — bother to continue. The island has a permanent population of well under a hundred people, no guesthouses marketed to outsiders in any language other than Korean, and a coastline that folds into dolerite sea cliffs dramatic enough to make you question why you spent three nights in Seoraksan instead. I drove a pair of clients there last autumn — a retired couple from the Netherlands who had already done Jirisan Dulle-gil and Wolchulsan with us — and the look on their faces when the second ferry rounded the headland and Eoryongdo came into view was worth every minute of the four-hour drive from Seoul. Where exactly is Eoryongdo, and why is it so hard to reach? Eoryongdo is a...