Posts

Simhaksan Dulle-gil Paju: Forest Loop Near the DMZ

Most people drive through Paju to get somewhere else. That's a mistake. Paju sits just south of the DMZ, and most foreign visitors treat it as a corridor — either to the Dorasan Station tourist complex or the Imjingak peace park. Few stop to walk the Simhaksan Dulle-gil , a quiet 6km forest loop that circles the lower flanks of Simhaksan (해발 약 198m) through pine and oak woodland. It takes about two hours at an easy pace, gains almost no elevation, and leaves you feeling like you've stepped out of Korea entirely. What is the Simhaksan Dulle-gil, exactly? The trail is a designated dulle-gil — a 'surrounding path' that loops around a mountain's perimeter rather than climbing to a summit. Simhaksan's version is well-marked, mostly flat, and runs through managed forest with good shade even in summer. The path crosses a few small wooden bridges, passes old pine stands, and at one point offers a partial view north toward Gyeonggi-do farmland with the hills of th...

Inwangsan Doseong Trail: Granite, Fortress Wall & Seoul Views

Inwangsan: A Mountain Seoul Left Unchanged Inwangsan stands at just 338 metres — low enough that serious hikers often overlook it entirely. That would be a mistake. Within a 90-minute loop you cross bare granite domes the size of apartment blocks, walk a restored stretch of the original Joseon-era Seoul City Wall, and look straight down onto the sea of roof tiles of Gyeongbokgung Palace. Almost no other trail in Korea offers that richness of experience for so little vertical gain. The mountain also has a reputation among Koreans that foreigners rarely hear about. Inwangsan is the shamanist mountain of Seoul. Mudang (무당), Korea's traditional spirit mediums, have held rituals on its boulder-strewn flanks for centuries, and a handful of shrines are still active today. You may hear drumming drifting down from the rocks on a weekend morning. It is an unusual thing to experience inside a capital city of ten million people. Why Public Transport Makes This Awkward The standard appr...

Hanyangdoseong Naksan Walk: Seoul's Best Sunset Section

The Wall Appears Out of Nowhere I dropped a group of four off at Hyehwa Station Exit 2 one Tuesday evening around five o'clock. They were skeptical — 'isn't this just a city walk?' one of them said through the car window. I told them to text me when they reached the top of Naksan and looked back toward Inwangsan. They texted forty minutes later. One word: 'Wow.' That reaction is consistent. The Naksan section of the Hanyangdoseong — Seoul's old city wall, originally built in 1396 under King Taejo — delivers a quality of light and cityscape in the late afternoon that the more famous Inwangsan and Bugaksan sections simply cannot match. The wall here crests a low ridge at just over a hundred metres elevation, and because the surrounding neighbourhood of Ihwa-dong sits below on both flanks, the views open up fast and hit hard. For foreign visitors who want something genuinely historic and visually spectacular without a full mountain day, this is the sectio...

Ansan Jarak-gil Seoul: A Barrier-Free Forest Walk

A Mountain Walk That Almost Nobody Needs to Skip Roughly 15 percent of South Korea's population lives with some form of physical disability, yet the country's mountain trails are almost universally built for able-bodied hikers. Stone steps, loose gravel, steep rope sections — the default Korean hiking experience excludes a huge slice of visitors before they even start. Ansan Jarak-gil is the rare exception, and it is a genuinely good walk, not merely a consolation prize. Ansan (鞍山, 295 m) sits inside Seoul city limits, sandwiched between the neighbourhoods of Sinchon, Hongdae, and Seodaemun. It is small by Korean standards but dense with old Scots pine and Japanese red pine, and on a weekday morning the forest is quiet enough that you can hear woodpeckers working the bark above you. The Jarak-gil — literally 'fallen-leaf path' — is a purpose-built deck and paved loop of roughly 7 km that circles the mountain at a gentle gradient, engineered so that wheelchairs, pram...

Jirisan Dulle-gil: 3 Days on Korea's Mother Mountain

Nobody Talks Enough About the Path That Goes Around Jirisan Most foreign visitors who come to Jirisan want the summit. They book the overnight hut at Jangteomok, they grind up to Cheonwangbong at 1,915 m, they tick Korea's highest mainland peak and move on. I understand the appeal — I've driven dozens of clients to those trailheads. But for the past few years the guests who come back to me glowing aren't the summit-baggers. They're the ones I dropped at a dusty village lane on the Jirisan Dulle-gil and picked up three days later, smelling of woodsmoke and wild garlic. The Dulle-gil is a network of trails roughly 275 km long that wraps around Jirisan's base, connecting old farming hamlets, Buddhist temple approaches, riverside paths, and mountain passes that sit well below the treeline. It is deliberately unhurried. It is the anti-summit. And for international visitors who don't have the Korean to negotiate mountain huts or the legs for a two-day ridge traver...

Deokyusan | OFF MAP KOREA Issue 05 — The Cool Green Country

Image

Bukhansan Dulle-gil: All 21 Sections for Foreign Hikers

What This Guide Covers — and Why It Exists The Bukhansan Dulle-gil is a 71.5 km walking loop that circles the entire Bukhansan National Park massif, threading through forest, ridge villages, Buddhist temples, and old Seoul neighbourhoods. Most foreign visitors walk one or two sections and call it done. This guide explains all 21 sections, which ones reward the effort most, and — critically — which trailheads are difficult to reach without a car. I have driven clients to nearly every one of these section starts. Some are two-minute walks from a subway exit. Others are down unsigned back roads in Eunpyeong-gu where even Korean day-hikers look slightly lost. Knowing the difference saves you a full morning of frustration before you even put boot to trail. The Shape of the Loop: How the 21 Sections Are Arranged The trail is divided into four broad compass quadrants — south, east, north, and west — all stitched together into a continuous circuit. The Korea National Park Service numbe...